1. #616
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    wooooooo !!!!
    really cool !!
    Lead Technical artist @ naughtydog
    -----
    https://www.artstation.com/artist/christophe-desse ------

    my zbrush central sketchbook

  2. #617
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    Video Tiling Texture Sculpts In ZBrush

    @ Xtrm3d Thanks bud!

    Here is a new render using Keyshot, it is a tiling texture sculpt that I made in ZBrush. I recently made some new videos on how to create tiling textures inside of ZBrush.



    Take a look if you would like to know more!









    If you would like to download the source content for the first 2 videos for free, please visit my model shop here:

    http://www.digital3dmodels.com/#!zbrush-tiling-texture-set-up/c1w6a

    Last edited by nickz; 03-23-15 at 02:09 PM. Reason: video links...fixing

  3. #618
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    Nice. How're you finding the form 1 +?

  4. #619
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    Form + 1 is starting to produce some really nice results. I was hoping I could do 25 microns and print really large....not so much, but if I drop a little lower I can print the larger size I am looking for. Really 100 and 50 microns doesn't look all that bad.

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    Default Heavy Demon 3D Bust Keyshot Mock Up

    Heavy Demon 3D Bust Keyshot Mock Up, we are currently working on printing this thing up. Until the final model is done, here is a keyshot mock up.


  6. #621
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    Thanks Nickz for that awesome tutorial

    http://www.digital3dmodels.com/#!zbrush-tiling-texture-set-up/c1w6a

    I wanted to try your awesome tutorial, but unfortunately
    ZBrush 4R7 P2 (drop-down list - Texture palette) will not import any .tga files.

    Christian




  7. #622
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    Christian,

    Yeah, to get the maps into ZBrush you will need to convert them from targa to .psd, .jpg, or .bmp, .tif, .png or .gif. The reason that I converted things over to .tga is because that is the format that I like to use in Maya and eventually push on over to UE4. Hope that helps! But yes...I wish ZBrush was able to accept .tga files.

    Here is the ZBrush Heavy Demon 3D Bust after being printed on the Form Labs 1 +. (100 microns, would have liked a higher resolution but the peel force at lower microns with this large of a print was causing print failures.) Now it is time to start cleaning this up and painting.



    More to come!

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    So cool!
    Are you sellin these?

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    nebular, well....haven't really thought of it until you mentioned it. I guess the next step will be to see how to reproduce copies.....so maybe in the future!

  10. #625
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    Sweet! We have a Form1+ here at work as well. Had it for about 2 months or so. Exceptional printing!

    Was this a hollow print or solid? And do you see more print failures from hollow prints?
    Christopher Tackett

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    This model is hollowed out. There might be more print flute due to hollowing, if it is too thin that can be a problem for sur, especially if you if you leave it in the alcohol bath too long. I have also seen cracking during the uvs curing process. But if you don't hollow out, you increase material cost and increase build times.


    I would so more of the failures I have seen have been due to me trying to print as large as possible at 25 microns. The peel force on the larger prints at the highest resolution seems to be problematic.

    The 25 microns seems to work better on smaller objects, but man is it pretty when it is done.

    The other thing is you can't see a lot of the detail that is there until you paint it flat grey, the surface is somewhat translucent, and this hides some of the detail.

    Print orientation and support stutter attachment points is another interesting game you have to play to get your part printed.

    Overall, the process is somewhat technical, beautiful, frustrating and amazing all at the same time.

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    Thanks for the info, Nick! If you don't mind me asking, how thick do you usually make your wall thickness and do you add any drain holes on your model? We've had very little luck printing hollow models. There's always some part that's caved in.
    Christopher Tackett

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    So yes I started using drain holes on the top of the model...not sure how grest that works, use internal support structures, wall thickness comes from the dynamesh are when punching a hole in the model using a negative insert mesh brush. I'm not too sure about thickness, still trying to figure out the best depth, I just know too thin is not good! Sorry...wish I had more but we are still learning ourselves. There is a Facebook group called mold3d that has a lot of great info. Might want to check that out!

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    Thanks again! I really appreciate the info! I'll definitely check out that FB group.
    Christopher Tackett

  15. #630

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    Hi Nick,

    Firstly congrats on the model and the print. I too have a form 1 and have had my fair share of print failures but with a reasonable amount of effort manage to successfully print most things at 0.05mm (layer thickness) with the grey resin you are using and often with a reduced base thickness and support density.

    I'd be happy to help you troubleshoot any issues you are having, shoot me a file or even just a screen grab of your preform setup.

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