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Creating a Real-Time NPR (Non-Photorealistic Render) Material
Take an in depth look into creating a realtime NPR Material. Dive into custom editing of the Material Palette, Document Palette, Render Palette, and the Light Palette to create a material and renders of your liking!
Creating a Real-Time...Go In Depth with Folders & Folder Actions
Take an in depth look at how ZBrush's Folder system works, organize to your needs and discover Folder Actions!
Go In Depth with...ZRemesher 3.0 - DetectEdges
Let's familiarize ourselves a little better with ZRemesher's DetectEdges functionality. In this Lesson example, we'll take a gear model that has a triangulated mesh with no PolyGroups or no mesh ID, but has edges to help utilize the DetectEdges function. Once DetectEdges is activated, we can convert our mesh to quad based geometry, create PolyGroups, and most importantly retain our clean or hard edges. This function can assist with future mesh editing including Dividing and sculpting or features that utilize PolyGroups.
ZRemesher 3.0 -...Using the Universal Camera to Composite in Photoshop
In this Lesson, let's discover how to lock our camera in place across multiple applications using ZBrush's Universal Camera, create multiple render passes, and create a final composite inside of Photoshop.
Using the Universal...BPR Filters: Blueprints - Part 5
Part 5 - Blueprints Settings
BPR Filters:...Creating a Scene with Snapshot3D - Part 1
Part 1 is an introduction to building this scene, discussing and demonstrating how Snapshot3D works inside of SpotLight. We'll review importing, selecting, and loading alphas to SpotLight.
Creating a Scene with...
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03-10-16

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@lucpet: Awesome! Thanks for sharing the work in progress images; looking forward to seeing your final version of the helmet! For the cloth: I used some superglue and sandwiched it between the ClothEye and ClothMouth parts like so: The other parts that are in the image were for the facial prosthetics but I never completed them. They are not used on the helmet. Friction with the registration keys are all I used to hold the helmet together while wearing it (same for the face plate.) You could add some magnets to help solidify it if needed Thanks for sharing the link! -Joseph

  • Piggyson
    06-20-18
    @Yodarules2: The main gumroad link has *.ZTL, *.STL, and *.X3G versions of the helmet free for downloading. Here are the direct links to each of the file types: ZBrush Decimated *.ZTL: https://gumroad.com/l/ZHXV [B]3D...
  • Yodarules2
    06-20-18
    Welp, I've been a big doof... thank you.
  • Scote
    06-22-18
    Awesome walktrought man. thanks for sharing
09-18-16

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Making my own!
Hey! Thanks for the files! This is an amazing piece and I started making my own. I am printing in ABS because thats all my school has on them but warping is not a problem so far as I can see (I have only printed 3 parts and have another on the way) I used kapton tape to just hold it together to take this picture because i ran out of normal tape haha... I have two question: 1. Is 1/4 pound epoxy sculpt enough? 2. Are you planning to make templates from foam for the rest of the suit? Thanks a ton. I just finished the electronic shopping and all I need to do is gather money and buy them! I need to mae some money before I can buy the paint and primer ect. Great tutorial and amazing piece of work!

12-01-15

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@snipex12: Yes using slice then close holes would work on the faceplate (since the cut would be straight.) I usually end up using the DynaMesh Subtract process out of habit since it always generates the slices I want. When using Slice/Trim with complex cuts the close hole process (to keep the object watertight) will often generate a webbing effect. Below is an example showing the result when Slice/Trim is used to cut out a square shape. When using the DynaMesh Subtract process you don't have to worry about the webbing happening :) -Joseph

  • lucpet
    03-09-16
    Excellent job btw How did you attach the cloth to the eyes and mouth and then attach that to the faceplate? I've been making my own from your files and posting the results on FB and G+ ...
  • lucpet
    03-09-16
    Just under the wording Traditional Process Part 7 In the top left picture with a label on it that says Final Primer/Filling Result There are some objects I suspect are for holding the masks front and back together? Are these integral to the final...
11-09-15

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@daddymack: Thanks! So here is the final tutorial quickly covering the Clearcoat, Polishing, and Waxing. For the Clearcoat I used Duplicolor Perfect Match Protective Clear Coat Finish. For the Polishing compound I used Turtle Wax Polishing Compound Light to Medium Cleaner. Then finally for the Wax I used Turtle Shell Super Hard Shell Paste Wax. (There are tons of types of Waxes this is the one I just ended up using.) That's it for the tutorials :) But wait there's more... I have uploaded to Gumroad the Decimated ZBrush *.ZTL version of the helmet, along with the *.STL files, and the *.x3g files (*.x3g files are for the Makerbot Replicator 2 - exact files I printed with.) These are free for any non-commercial usage. If you have a 3D Printer you can start printing these files out and make your own Cyberman Helmet :) The files are all free to download but donations are welcome (they will go towards more paint... heh) If you end up printing the helmet out feel free to post the images in this thread; I'd love to see them! -Joseph https://gumroad.com/piggyson#

  • snipex12
    11-30-15
    Wouldn't it be easier to use slice curve to slice each part of faceplate ???
11-03-15

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Here are a few more images; almost completed with all these :) Paint used for the helmet was Duplicolor Perfect Match: BVW2039 Reflex Silver Met (LA7W) and BNS0604 Precision Gray (W40) Also attached a new image from Halloween. I quickly created a (Messy) Eva Foam chest plate for my son (middle part is 3D printed and glows blue.) The combination of Eva Foam + 3D Printing is something I plan on experimenting with more. My son wore his face plate for a while but then detached it after it got too hot :) (Note: Add some fans next time ;) -Joseph

  • daddymack
    11-04-15
    I haven't posted here for ages, I just had to commend you on following thru with this badass piece of work Piggyson!.. Especially for including your little dude in it all
10-23-15

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Some more images of the process :) -Joseph

  • bryandsilva
    10-24-15
    Wow, from doing all the layers of primer and sanding it down, it became really smooth, now I'm encouraged to go out and make my own 3d printed mask
  • Dantert
    10-25-15
    Thanks for the tutorial! Great stuff! Also love to see your helmet design printed out, so rad!
10-21-15

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@Quade: I just find it easier to detach the prints from the supports rather then the raft or directly off the build plate. The supports Simplify3D creates pop off really easy. If I print directly on the build plate or raft I occasionally end up with stuck prints that requires tools to remove (and everytime I break out a dental tool to work on a print 90% of the time I end up stabbing myself in the hand somehow :) ) Here are some more images on the Traditional Processes; more to come! -Joseph

10-20-15

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@glaucolonghi: Thanks man! I am getting closer to the end of the Tutorial Images; working on the final Traditional Processes now :) @DGralnik: I use QGrid quite a bit; I attached another image for ya :) @lt_ken84: Thanks! Here are some more images of the printed versions of the helmets. I did create quite a few smaller test prints before committing to the larger ones. The test versions took an hour or so to print and I could check how the models would look in real-life. I went through about 5 test revisions before reaching the final shape of the helmet. Seeing the actual models in real-life and under different lighting conditions is huge. I also test painted the smaller versions as well (since perception of the object also changes after being painted with reflective paint.) Also here is another image on Dynamic Subdivsions and when I use QGrid, Creasing, or Edge Bumping. In general I mix and match the processes where I see fit. I end up using all options in various areas on the model. -Joseph

  • DGralnik
    10-20-15
    Thanks for the pro-con breakdown! Definitely above and beyond what I was expecting and really helped solidify the concepts for me.
  • Quade
    10-21-15
    Thanks for the additional information. This is really great information. Maybe I missed it, but why are the models held up 6mm above the buildplate? Do you get a flatter more accurate face if it builds on supports above the buildplate rather than flat...
10-19-15

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Controlling the Creasing
@DGralnik: Here's one on creasing for you -Joseph

  • DGralnik
    10-19-15
    Do you find that you used the QGrid slider very often? I'm finding that it's a bit tricky to get a cube to have nice bevels without the whole thing turning a bit spherical. I give the QGrid slider a little nudge, and the whole thing shapes up pretty...
  • lt_ken84
    10-20-15
    These are very great information and breakdown mate! Love how its created with zbrush especially hard surface. Cool!! *************** Blog - http://amazingbeggars.wordpress.com/ Generalist Reel -...
10-19-15

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Makerbot Replicator 2 Setup
@Freewaldo, @Donghua, @Cosmick: Thanks! @Monstermaker: Thank you for taking the time to post your workflows as well! I think fondly on the soldering iron approach pretty much every time I 3D print something :) Here is my setup for my MakerBot Replicator 2. I am using a GeckoTek Build plate with the Magnetic attachment system. The Magnetic system is really nice and allows me to pull the build plate off easily to detach the prints. I run two GeckoTek plates that I switch between (I can fast swap the completed print and plate and slap in a new plate and print instantly.) The prints also adhere well to the GeckoTek plates; the plates do have a lifespan but I have printed ~60 prints off of a single plate.) http://www.geckotek3d.com/ In general for getting high quality prints from the Replicator 2 I recommend four things: 1) A precisely leveled bed 2) Simplify3D Software 3) Print as vertical as possible (Z Axis delivers the highest quality on the Replicator 2) 3) Use Filament with a consistent diameter For leveling I use a 0.10 metal feeler gauge to start the process (This is superior to the Makerbot business card ;) ) After rough leveling with this I then use a Digital Dial Indicator with a Printed Snap-On Dial Holder using Henry Thomas' Leveling script. You can grab the script and holder off of Thingaverse here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:41090 After leveling once you can print for quite a while without re-leveling. I usually recheck the leveling monthly or if I start noticing issues in my prints. For filament I am currently using HatchBox's 1KG PLA spools. I have gone through quite a few spools of the material and have had no issues in it's quality. The cost is really reasonable at ~$23 for 1KG from Amazon (it also ships with Amazon Prime if you are subscribed to that service.) Since I will be painting everything I print I usually just go with the cheapest color available.) http://amzn.to/1MzK3bj If you ever hear 'click click click' when printing check the filament; I have had quite a few bad spools where the diameter has deviated greatly. I have not heard any 'click click click' since I switched to the HatchBox PLA.) I use a Low Temp Hotglue gun to assist if something goes terribly wrong (Hot Glue Works really well at adhering prints to the bed or strengthening small areas. I used this a lot more before acquiring Simplify3D.) While using this approach I always refer to Rick Baker's thread on ZBC where he describes using a soldering iron to manually fix 3D printing errors :) http://www.zbrushcentral.com/showthread.php?177581-Bringing-back-an-old-friend&p=1068625&viewfull=1#post1068625 For removing supports I have two dental tools I primarily use. Most of the time these are not needed with Simplify3D (unless I just need to get a purchase on a small support somewhere to pop out.) "Use the Soldering Iron, Luke" -Joseph

10-16-15

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@natxxxo, @Frenchy Pilou: Thanks for the kind words! @Fonty: I will be doing image breakdowns of the process @spaceboy412, @Knacki: 2k was the max I used on the helmet; I'll have to check out the 12k micro mesh pads! thanks for the recommendation @Gedn: yup the wax was just for a final polish; it also adds a little bit of depth. On small stuff it would be a pain to buff out however @DGralnik: I'll make a quick image break down on Creasing @JS_Morgan: Glad to hear it! I recently have been doing more and more larger mostly PLA prints; Printing Material cost for one helmet was ~$30. @Intervain: =) Here's a few more tutorial images on the steps I used to create the GCode from the STL files that were exported from ZBrush. Instead of using the Makerbot Desktop Application I used a program called Simplify3D to create the GCode. If you have never used Simplify3D I highly recommend it; the supports it creates are amazing (they detach from the model in one pull without the use of any tools 90% of the time.) I will be posting more images showing the supports it creates. Hope these help! -Joseph

  • Donghua
    10-18-15
    wow~~~ COOL Helmet COOL Tutorial
  • Cosmick
    10-18-15
    thanks for the great tutorial
10-15-15

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@marcus_civis, enishi, TonimaAkter, ][-][4Z4R][)): Thanks! @Marco Splash: Hah! You need to start 3D printing for sure! (and I recommend the kid aspect as well; it's a blast.) @spaceboy412: Here is an image of the items I used for finishing (I will be creating tutorial images covering the process.) -Joseph

  • natxxxo
    10-16-15
    Thank you! Powerful tutorial 100% useful. Congratulations.
10-14-15

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Lowering the Topology for Printing and Exporting
Here are two more image tutorials. One on using Decimation Master to reduce the polycount of the model for printing (I hope everyone already knows how to do this ;) ) The second covering using the 3D Print Exporter to export out the SubTools as separate *.STL files that are all scaled correctly :) Hope these help! -Joseph

  • ][-][4Z4R][))
    10-15-15
    Well deserved TOP TOW! Thanks for sharing all this tips and workflows!
  • Marco Splash
    10-15-15
    Once again, good job with that man! Makes me wanna buy a 3d printer for sure... and have a kid! Hahahaha
10-14-15

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Here are two more Tutorials on slicing the model up. Lots of ZModeler and DynaMesh Subtraction usage. Basic premise is to build a volume, duplicate it, and then modify the volumes to create a positive and negative subtraction object. This allows for each part to be subtracted creating a clean break. -Joseph

10-14-15

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Seperating the Faceplate to a Seperate SubTool
Thanks mutte696, Etcher, and seanforsyth; glad to see that these are useful =) Here is another set of tutorial images. I try to model as much as possible with the ZModeler brush until I run into something that would be faster to create using the DynaMesh Subtraction process. At this point I convert the ZModeler geometries to DynaMesh and perform the DynaMesh Boolean Operations. The processes show in these images is really fast to complete inside of ZBrush it just looks huge when broken out to small images steps. Continuing onward with these image tutorials -Joseph

10-13-15

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Creating the Printer Build Reference Volume
Another quick one on creating the Printer Build Reference Volume. With the scene scale being set previously using 'Step Size' with the ZModeler brush will produce .5 inch steps. This is useful in quickly blocking out the Printer Build Volume to make sure that the helmet will be broken into printable size chunks. (Volume is purposely generated smaller to leave room for error. You really only want to slice up a model for print once ;) ) -Joseph

  • Etcher
    10-13-15
    Thanks for sharing such a superb in depth workflow presentation Joseph Look forward to seeing how you proceeded with the actual printing proces and the clean-up/painting
  • seanforsyth
    10-13-15
    That's awesome Joseph! As ever, your tutorials are clear and concise, the best on the web in my opinion - appreciate it a lot! Can't wait to see the priming and finishing tutorial. Cheers! Seán
10-12-15

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Creating the Helmet Cavity
Thanks all for the kind words! @seanforsyth: I tried to print the parts as vertical as possible; I then sprayed the print with car primer/filler and sanded that down to get the smooth finish. I am working on creating little image tutorials based on the entire process (including the finishing.) Here is another set of images on how I created the inner helmet cavity. The 'Create Shell' function was used to establish an even starting thickness across the model. More to come! -Joseph

10-02-15

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Working with ScanData Cyberman Helmet Breakdowns
Some breakdowns/workflows for working with ScanData. This process was used to make the helmet wearable. -Joseph

  • Takai
    10-03-15
    I saw you at the summit with that helmet! Really cool retro vibe to it. Useful breakdown.
  • seanforsyth
    10-05-15
    This is great Joseph! I'm amazed that was printed on a Makerbot Replicator 2 though... How did you get them so smooth? Was there a lot of sanding down? Does the filament lend itself well to sanding? What did you use to do it? The surface looks flawless! ...
10-02-15

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Cyberman Helmet Breakdown
Here are the first few breakdowns for the helmet. Hope it helps! -Joseph

10-02-15

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Fan Art: 3D Printed Doctor Who Cyberman Helmet
Hey All, I wanted to post images of a personal project I have been working on for my son and me for Halloween. I have been a fan of Doctor Who for a while and finally got around to recreating a few Cyberman helmets. The helmets were created entirely inside of ZBrush and printed out on a MakerBot Replicator 2. For this thread I will be breaking down the process I used to create the helmets with simple image tutorials (some short tutorial videos may follow.) Completing two sets of Cyberman armor is also on the list but it's not looking like I will have completed before this year's Halloween :) On to the Images: Then had some fun at the ZBrush Summit with one of the Helmets :) ("Louie Tucci as the Doctor" - Joe Menna) Was honored by Rick Baker posing for a photo! -Joseph